When deciding where to stay for a couple of weeks after the tourism conference in Turkey, we quickly thought of Croatia. After some research, we chose Split, the second largest city in the country, as it’s neither too big nor too small.
Split is a great base for day trips and offers excellent transportation around the region. While you can stop here for a few days and then move on, we recommend staying for two weeks or more to truly experience the place. There are many activities you would miss if you just passed through!
Marjan Hill
Split offers nature right in the city center with Marjan Hill just steps from the old town. At 178 meters, it’s not the tallest mountain, but it’s a great escape. Near St. Francis Church at Republic Square, you’ll find a sign pointing to the hill. Stroll through the back lanes, climb the stone steps, and reach a beautiful vantage point. You can relax at the cafe or continue up to the top via a forest or seaside trail. We enjoyed hiking here several times during our stay.
Emperor Diocletian’s Palace
This is a must-see in Split, and you can’t miss it. Next to the palace is the 60-meter high Cathedral of Saint Domnius, visible from almost anywhere in the city.
Wander the Promenade
Split’s promenade along the Adriatic Sea is a scenic route starting at the “Riva” in front of the main pedestrian street. You can continue past the marina, through a park, along a cliffside, and end up at a beach. This walk is about two kilometers and offers beautiful views.
Visit the Islands
Croatia has over 1,000 islands, many just offshore from Split, perfect for day trips. Check out Hvar, Korcula, and Vis, among others. You can travel by ferry, sailing tours, or even seaplane. In 2014, seaplane service was introduced in Croatia, allowing flights from Split to neighboring islands and even to Dubrovnik or across the Adriatic Sea to Italy.
Day Trips
Split has so many nearby attractions. Visit the tourist office for tours like the UNESCO site of Trogir, the Krka waterfalls, and the Plitvice Lakes.
Travel to Another Country
Split’s location makes it easy to visit other countries. Consider renting a car and taking a trip to Montenegro or Bosnia & Herzegovina. Kotor, Montenegro is about 4.5 hours away by highway, and Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina is only 2 to 2.5 hours away. Don’t forget your passport!
Dalmatian Cuisine
Split offers excellent food, with many Italian-influenced dishes. Here are a few of our favorite spots:
– Villa Spiza: A cozy restaurant run by two women, serving delicious meals for about 75 kuna ($11). It’s one of the few places open during the off-season.
– Kantun Paulina: Perfect for a grab-and-go lunch, offering cevapi (homemade sausages in a soft bun) and hamburgers. Prices range from 18 kuna ($2.60) to 22 kuna ($3.20).
– Mazzgoon: A more upscale restaurant with unique decor and tasty food. A homemade burger costs 65 kuna ($9.50), and they also offer ribs, seafood, salads, and soups.
– Bajamonti Cafe: Located in Republic Square, this non-smoking cafe has great wi-fi and lattes for 12.50 kuna ($1.80).
– Pizzeria Galija: Specializing in wood-fired pizzas, seafood, and pastas, with pasta dishes costing around 65 kuna ($9.40).
Accommodation
For stays of a week or more, renting an apartment is recommended. We stayed at Apartment Seagull for about $28 per night, which included laundry, kitchen, and wi-fi. It was a 10-15 minute walk to the old town, with grocery stores nearby.
Local Culture
In Split, locals live by the term “pomalo,” which means to take it easy. They believe in enjoying life at a slower pace. The weather, particularly the jugo wind, affects their mood, making them grumpy and sleepy, while the bura wind is believed to cleanse the air and mind.
Locals consume coffee frequently and can be seen drinking it at any time of day. When you arrive, make sure to get a Split Card from the tourism office for discounts on entrance fees, rental cars, and restaurants.
If you sit at a cafe, you can stay as long as you want without feeling pressured to order more. If they don’t serve food, you can bring your own. Keep an eye out for dolphins in the harbor, as we spotted three during our walk on the promenade.
Renting a Car
If you decide to rent a car, negotiate hard for a good rate and ensure the Green Card (border crossing insurance) is included.
Practical Information
– Currency: Croatian Kuna. $1 USD = 6.90 Kuna (as of February 2016)
– Language: Croatian
– European Union: Yes
– Schengen Area: No
Have you ever been to Split? What would you add to our guide? If you haven’t been before, we hope this guide helps you!
