Sipadan is Malaysia’s only oceanic island and is actually the remains of a huge extinct volcano. Over time, coral has grown on this submerged volcanic rock in the Celebes Sea. Situated just off the northeastern coast of Borneo, Sipadan has become a legendary spot for scuba diving.
Back in July 2009, I heard other divers rave about this small island, calling it the holy grail of marine ecosystems. Over 3,000 species of fish, along with hundreds of green and hawksbill turtles, barracuda, jack fish, hammerhead sharks, and whale sharks, make their home around this little atoll. I knew I had to experience it for myself.
We planned our trip to Borneo, one of the planet’s most stunning islands, and eagerly booked our flights online. Since flights to this island are limited, we scoured different airlines for the best deal. Typically, AirAsia offers the cheapest fares, but through Expedia, we found a great deal and flew from Kuala Lumpur to Borneo for less than $40!
July’s conditions were perfect for diving. After a long bus ride from Kota Kinabalu, we arrived in the Northeastern town of Semporna. We checked into a small, basic hotel and quickly fell asleep, exhausted from our journey.
The next morning, I got up early, headed to the dive shop, suited up, and prepped for my first two dives. As I hopped onto the dive boat, I was amazed by the crystal-clear waters of the Semporna Marine Park. The rising sun illuminated the white sand beneath our boat, making the sea sparkle.
I opted for a 10-dive package, and my first seven dives around the Semporna Marine Park were incredible. I couldn’t imagine how diving could get any better until we reached Sipadan on the fourth day. I scheduled three dives there and chatted with our dive master, Richard Mei, a 65-year-old who has been diving these waters for decades and played a significant role in local conservation efforts. When I asked if we’d see any turtles, he confidently replied that if we didn’t see at least 20, he’d be surprised.
As we approached Sipadan, I saw a tiny jungle-covered island encircled by glowing white sand. Richard announced it was time to suit up, and I couldn’t have been more excited. We entered the water in classic scuba style, and as soon as the bubbles settled, I realized we were in the middle of a huge tornado of jack fish. Their swirling mass surrounded us, creating an underwater spectacle.
The visibility was so good that I could see reef sharks hunting 40 meters below. The coral embankment was brightly colored and almost surreal, with blue and red fan corals swaying in the clear water. We passed numerous caves, each housing a turtle. By the end of our third dive, Richard had lost count of the turtles at around 30.
Back on shore, Dariece immediately knew I had an incredible day, judging by the grin on my face. I struggled to recount all the amazing sights I had experienced. Richard, proud of his accurate turtle prediction, patted me on the back. But it wasn’t just the turtles; the incredible variety of sea life, vibrant corals, and crystal-clear water made Sipadan the standout dive of my life.
I’ve dived in the Red Sea, seen Humpback Whales in Mozambique, explored caves in Mexico, and admired reefs in Belize, but nothing compares to Sipadan. I hope to return to this underwater paradise, which remains the best dive site I’ve ever experienced.
